etrailer | Best 2005 Subaru Forester Hitch Options
Click for best 2005 Subaru Forester Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2005_Subaru_Forester.htm Products in this video: Click for more info and reviews of this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/36311.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C12038.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120381.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120382.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120383.html Search for other popular Subaru Forester parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2005/Subaru/Forester https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-best-2005-subaru-forester-hitch-options.aspx Today we're going to be taking a look at the best hitches available for the 2005 Subaru Forester. One of the most popular hitches that we offer is going to be the Draw-Tite. Its part number is 36311. This is a class two. It's going to offer an 1-1/4" by an 1-1/4" opening. We also offer the CURT, part number C12038. This is also a class two. Same opening, an 1-1/4", 1-1/4". Now these class two hitches are going to be pretty adaptable for just about any kind of item that you might want to use with them. The class two accessories allow us to use bike racks up to 4-bike racks, allow us to use cargo carriers, allow us to haul small trailers and things like that. A few of the differences that I've noticed with our hitches are going to be that the visual portion of the hitch or the portion that you're actually going to see behind the vehicle, with the CURT, from about this rounded edge down it's going to stay visible. You're going to see it if you stand well back behind the vehicle. If you're right up on the vehicle it doesn't really show up at all. Whereas with our Draw-Tite, it's going to be a little bit higher. It's tucked in and just the very, very bottom portion's actually going to be hanging out below our fascia. If you want the very, very least noticeable hitch possible, the Draw-Tite's definitely the way to go. Now visually, here on the end you can see the reinforcement collar on our Draw-Tite. It's kind of a band-style that's been welded around the end of the receiver tube opening, where the reinforcement collar on our CURT, I think this is a little bit cleaner look. I like the looks of it. It's more flush. It's also been welded into place. Both of those are going to do a good job of reinforcing the end of our hitch for us. You can see the CURT's safety chain connection points are a rolled steel stock-style. Pretty good openings on each side. That's going to allow us to connect our safety chains. If we look at our Draw-Tite, it's just a little bit bigger design, a little bit larger steel stock. The opening, maybe about 1/2" wider. I don't think you're really going to have any challenges at all connecting whatever safety chains you might want to to either of them. Now both hitches are going to offer a 1/2" pinhole. That's what we're going to use to secure all of our items with. We want to be sure we use class two accessories. Looks like we've got plenty of room on both of our hitches whether we're going to use an anti-rattle bolt, maybe a locking hitch pin, or even a standard hitch pin and clip. Now our Draw-Tite has a small tab that's been welded on here. This is a tab that we can use for securing our fascia once our install is done. There's one small tab on the back on some models that will allow us to put our push pin fastener in there and get it secured. The CURT doesn't have that but it has the same lip here that our Draw-Tite does, and our fascia will come down and rest on at. We really don't have to worry about it too much there. Although they do look different here on the end, where this CURT has a plate steel that's been curved up and over the exhaust, the exhaust is going to sit right here, the Draw-Tite also mounts over the exhaust. Instead of having a large bend in it, it's got just a small bend in our crosstube. Both of them, again, are going to go right up and over our current factory exhaust. A very minor difference in the installation process which won't really affect your time or labor at all is going to be that with the Draw-Tite they send out new hardware, whereas with the CURT they ask that you reuse the factory hardware that you're going to remove in the installation process. Now a minor difference in the tow ratings on the hitches are going to be when we look at the Draw-Tite it offers a 300 pound tongue weight rating. That's the maximum downward force we can put her at our receiver tube opening. When we're looking at the CUR
Click for best 2005 Subaru Forester Trailer Hitch options: https://www.etrailer.com/hitch-2005_Subaru_Forester.htm Products in this video: Click for more info and reviews of this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Draw-Tite/36311.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C12038.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120381.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120382.html Click for more info and reviews of this Curt Trailer Hitch: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C120383.html Search for other popular Subaru Forester parts and accessories: https://www.etrailer.com/vehicle/2005/Subaru/Forester https://www.etrailer.com Don’t forget to subscribe! https://www.youtube.com/user/etrailertv Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-best-2005-subaru-forester-hitch-options.aspx Today we're going to be taking a look at the best hitches available for the 2005 Subaru Forester. One of the most popular hitches that we offer is going to be the Draw-Tite. Its part number is 36311. This is a class two. It's going to offer an 1-1/4" by an 1-1/4" opening. We also offer the CURT, part number C12038. This is also a class two. Same opening, an 1-1/4", 1-1/4". Now these class two hitches are going to be pretty adaptable for just about any kind of item that you might want to use with them. The class two accessories allow us to use bike racks up to 4-bike racks, allow us to use cargo carriers, allow us to haul small trailers and things like that. A few of the differences that I've noticed with our hitches are going to be that the visual portion of the hitch or the portion that you're actually going to see behind the vehicle, with the CURT, from about this rounded edge down it's going to stay visible. You're going to see it if you stand well back behind the vehicle. If you're right up on the vehicle it doesn't really show up at all. Whereas with our Draw-Tite, it's going to be a little bit higher. It's tucked in and just the very, very bottom portion's actually going to be hanging out below our fascia. If you want the very, very least noticeable hitch possible, the Draw-Tite's definitely the way to go. Now visually, here on the end you can see the reinforcement collar on our Draw-Tite. It's kind of a band-style that's been welded around the end of the receiver tube opening, where the reinforcement collar on our CURT, I think this is a little bit cleaner look. I like the looks of it. It's more flush. It's also been welded into place. Both of those are going to do a good job of reinforcing the end of our hitch for us. You can see the CURT's safety chain connection points are a rolled steel stock-style. Pretty good openings on each side. That's going to allow us to connect our safety chains. If we look at our Draw-Tite, it's just a little bit bigger design, a little bit larger steel stock. The opening, maybe about 1/2" wider. I don't think you're really going to have any challenges at all connecting whatever safety chains you might want to to either of them. Now both hitches are going to offer a 1/2" pinhole. That's what we're going to use to secure all of our items with. We want to be sure we use class two accessories. Looks like we've got plenty of room on both of our hitches whether we're going to use an anti-rattle bolt, maybe a locking hitch pin, or even a standard hitch pin and clip. Now our Draw-Tite has a small tab that's been welded on here. This is a tab that we can use for securing our fascia once our install is done. There's one small tab on the back on some models that will allow us to put our push pin fastener in there and get it secured. The CURT doesn't have that but it has the same lip here that our Draw-Tite does, and our fascia will come down and rest on at. We really don't have to worry about it too much there. Although they do look different here on the end, where this CURT has a plate steel that's been curved up and over the exhaust, the exhaust is going to sit right here, the Draw-Tite also mounts over the exhaust. Instead of having a large bend in it, it's got just a small bend in our crosstube. Both of them, again, are going to go right up and over our current factory exhaust. A very minor difference in the installation process which won't really affect your time or labor at all is going to be that with the Draw-Tite they send out new hardware, whereas with the CURT they ask that you reuse the factory hardware that you're going to remove in the installation process. Now a minor difference in the tow ratings on the hitches are going to be when we look at the Draw-Tite it offers a 300 pound tongue weight rating. That's the maximum downward force we can put her at our receiver tube opening. When we're looking at the CUR